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The heat treated steel head on this tool weighs 1.25 pounds, which is fairly light. But for a hatchet of this size, you should have no problem using this to clear brush, limb trees, and using it as a bushcraft axe. At the end of the day, though, this axe really has limited usability outside of being easy to carry. All of the axes on this list come with a heat treated steel head, reducing the amount of time spent axe sharpening. This is the bare-bones option for anyone looking for a simple axe. These axes were the biggest name in foresting back when all logging was done by hand. While it may seem like common sense, the brand made a name for always having high quality, pre sharpened, polished axes. This was a rarity for the time, and is what lead to the rapid growth. When you have a foresting job that needs to get done, nothing is better than an axe.

I really don’t know the answer to your 2 questions, but I would say take it out and beet on it a while as is to see it the steel/heat treat is good. If not your only out some woods time and lets face it even if it doesn’t hold up you still got some woods time. I think that fiberglass still has to prove itself, seen fiberglass break, it embeds itself in your hands, and how will it hold up to the decades of time. For homework, you can choose an ax but if you are dealing with big wooden blocks or trees you probably need both. Splitting axes and mauls both have their own dimensions which need to be explained to differentiate both of them. Splitting axes are mainly used when working with logs of medium to small sizes.

There are many brands producing quality handles for the axes like Gransfors Bruks, Estwing, Fiskars, Husqvarna, and many more. Ax handles can be made of different materials as discussed below. Insert the new fiberglass ax handle into the bottom of the ax head. Stop when the top of the handle is flush with the top opening in the axe head. Remove the old ax handle by sawing off a wooden one as close to the ax head as possible, using a hacksaw or handsaw. If the old handle is fiberglass, saturate the top and bottom of the ax head with an epoxy solvent and let it sit for five to 10 minutes to dissolve the adhesive.

Husqvarna’s A2400 is a general-purpose axe capable of tackling just about any bushcraft needs. It features a 2.2-pound head with a profile designed for both splitting and felling. The A2400 features a 27-inch reinforced composite handle that’s both lightweight and durable, offering the ideal balance between swinging power and portability. The main drawbacks are that it’s relatively expensive, and the fiberglass handle doesn’t include a nonslip grip that could make this axe easier and more comfortable to use. This is one of the main reasons splitting axes have heavy heads and relatively shorter handles, and felling axes have lighter heads and longer handles. The balance of an axe refers to where its center of gravity is located. Since the weight of the head is greater than the weight of the handle, an axe’s center of gravity is located just below the head near the top of the handle. Consequently, axes with heavy heads and shorter handles have the highest center of gravity, although a shorter handle will offer less striking leverage. Handles between 18 and 28 inches are generally recommended for bushcraft since they offer the best compromise between striking power and portability. Metal handles are highly durable and can withstand considerably more abuse than a wooden handle.

Fiberglass handle axe

If the handle is too loose, you may need to remove the upper part of the handle tip, but do not cut off more than 1/4 inch at a time. Another method is to insert the handle fully, and then remove the excess by either cutting it off, or breaking it off by striking it with a hammer. Some people prefer to simply leave the excess in place, resulting in the handle protruding a fraction of an inch above the axe head. After the wedge is removed, take a hammer and a punch or coal chisel and use them to drive the old axe handle out through the bottom of the axe head. Clean out the slot in the axe head with steel wool to remove any old material, including dirt and rust. fiberglass handle, (Pickheaded.) I’m 5’9″, and on a peaked roof the short handle works very nice for cutting, for me at least. Also love the pick side, the long pick has worked great for overhaul operations…opening up walls, pulling doorway trims and window frames.

It too has a maul side as well as a side for splitting wood. This axe was designed to absorb shock while also being able to handle larger logs. All thanks to the double-sided blade design that features both a standard axe head and an adze, the Pulaski axe is a must-have tool that can tackle a wide variety of tasks. No outdoorsmen, firefighter, or landscaper should leave home without a strong and durable Pulaski axe. This Pulaski Axe from Midwest Rake is constructed from durable and non-corrosive fiberglass to stand the test of time. It features a handle that is slightly shorter than others on this list measuring in at 31 inches. The head is 12 inches wide, and the entire tool weighs just 6 pounds. Split Resistant Handles on Hisco axes, picks and mattocks feature a fiberglass core in a tough molded high-density polypropylene handle. This shock absorbing construction is more user friendly.

Appears to be sturdy, but again, how well it holds up, IDK. Despite having a “high carbon steel” blade, I suspect it will require more frequent sharpening in addition to sharpening out of the box. I keep different tools for different applications. If you want something tried-and-true for frequent reliable chopping wood for your woodstove, go for a well-reviewed axe by one of the more well-known axe makers. Yes in many terms fiberglass handles are preferred to wooden handles because of their strength and are less vulnerable to the extreme weather conditions. They require less maintenance as compared to wooden handles. But If you are looking for some tough work like cutting tree roots or working in any polluted or extreme environmental conditions, then you should buy fiberglass handle. Fiberglass handles are a vital part of the best backpacking axe or travel axe. There are few points you need to consider before selecting an axe either with wooden, fiberglass, or steel handle. Drill 10 to 15 holes into the remaining wooden portion of the handle.

Push the head onto the handle, making sure the caulking cord creates a good seal between the head and handle (or you’ll get epoxy all over). Start by wrapping the caulking cord around the handle where the bottom of the head will meet it. But in everyday life, at least for me, axes frequently do a lot more than cut wood. Demolition, pounding posts, chopping roots, levering, tamping clay and loosening rust-welded parts. In preparing for an unknown situation, is the extra durability of fibreglass worth it? (I think it is, since axes get used as hammers too. YMMV.) I wonder what firefighters use these days; that’s a good indicator for hard use. Council Tool Wildland Firefighting MCLEOD tool with a 48″ handle. our products are suitable for both handyman and trade purpose, and this has been proved in the markets like Australia, USA, etc. The most flexible tool on this list is definitely the Pulaski axe. It has the same weight profile as the Michigan line, but has the added bit on the opposite end.

I’m sure it would suck to have it happen and have fiberglass in your arms and probably your face and chest. A splitting axe has a head with thin cheeks and a sharp blade. Swinging an axe downwards splits the wood along the grains and breaks apart the fibers, unlike traditional axes, which go across. Handles come in different shapes, sizes and can be made of American hickory wood or of strong fiberglass material. American hickory handles with great grains orientations are very strong and can last long. Fiberglass or plastic handles are hollow, unbreakable and lightweight that allow you to work for hours without tiring.

Using a hand saw, the handle can be shortened to personal preferences. I never broke a Steiwa axe handle – and there were times when I trained excessively and had quite a few misses. If the throwing axe does not stick in the target wood, it might bounce back. This is not a cool, I don’t have to walk situation, but a OMG, there’s an axe coming at me one! With wooden axe handles, you get fewer bounces, because the flight energy can get eaten up by the head coming loose and “riding down” the handle. With synthetic handles, that doesn’t happen because you’ll be fixing them tightly to the head with a bolt. Synthetic axe handles don’t fit as tight as wood – and it’s also no use soaking plastic handles in water. To prevent the axe head from coming loose on impact – “riding down” on the handle and putting nicks into it – you’ll want to fix your synthetic handle with some screw or bolt .

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